Showing posts with label soap. Show all posts
Showing posts with label soap. Show all posts

Wednesday, 9 May 2012

Soap vs Detergents and some History

Talking Soap

Where to begin..., let's see...
The difference between soap and detergent:
A few years ago, I was helping the team from Newton (a children's science program here in Norway) create a segment about soap. see program here (in Norwegian) (the giant soap volcano in her nightmare sequence was made by yours-truly.  That sucker deserves its own blog entry.) The first thing I talked to them on the phone about was how people confuse soap and detergent.  They actually chose to lead with that in their segment, so I'll start with that here as well.


Soap is the combination of fats + base solution and has been around for over 2000 years.  Detergents were invented in the 1940's using petrochemicals.


There is some debate, myths and legends about how soap was first discovered.  I imagine that soap's origin story goes something like this: Melted animal fat falls into ashes from fire, ashes are used to clean something and someone notices that the animal fat + ashes clean better than just ashes and water.  Why?  Well, we know now, but they didn't know then, that wood ash, especially wood ash from hard woods, contains potassium and when it is mixed or drained through with water, it becomes a potassium hydroxide solution, or KOH.  A solution of KOH, made crudely with wood ash, combined with any kind of animal fat will make a pasty, muddy looking soap.  Why?  Because KOH is a mean bully and it pulls apart fat, eats it, rearranges it until it is a type of salt and not a fat.  It becomes potassium tallowate and water and glycerine (we'll talk about glycerine and why it is there another time) and probably loads of dirt from the ash because nothing has been measured or cleaned or filtered nicely.  The year is sometime BC and soap is discovered.  *cue hero music.


To make soap, they were creating a base solution, and that is 'base' as in the pH scale, not bass in the music scale. Base is the opposite of acid. (I'll write more about pH another time, too.) The solution is strong enough to eat through clothing and a layer or two of skin. Ouch. Once it is mixed with enough oils and fats, it becomes soap and there is no more caustic base left.  Ensuring there was enough fats for the KOH to bully and eat was important.  They didn't want any of the caustic chemicals left over and sitting alone because then it became a very harsh batch of soap.  The soap makers learned to put a small, cooled piece of soap to their tongue.  If they felt a sting, they knew they had to add more oils.  Some soap makers still check their batches like this.  


KOH is the base chemical used to make a true liquid soap, even today.  Of course, today, we have better sources of it than leeching it through wood ash.  Today, we measure our chemicals by the gram, mix carefully and cook patiently.  I don't make liquid soap, but I know a lady who does and she does it brilliantly. Her name is Agneta and she has been a fellow soapmaker of mine since I began, 6 years ago, generously sharing her time and experience with me over the internet.  You can see her work here: Tvålmakaren, Sweden  
So, next time you are looking for liquid soap at the store, check the list of ingredients.  If they don't include potassium something-ate it isn't soap.  (btw, I will have some of Agneta's soap in Pryd in the near future, if you are reading this in the Trondheim area.)


Another strong base chemical is used to make harder bars of soap.  Sodium hydroxide, or NaOH, or more commonly known as lye.  Lye is sometimes also used as the term for KOH, so that gets a bit confusing.  I like to stick with their chemical abbreviations, then there are no misunderstandings.  NaOH does the same thing KOH does, so on the ingredients list of a real soap, you should see, Sodium something-ate.  Because the NaOH eats the oils and turns them into soap, water and glycerine.  The 'something' always refers to the type of fat or oil used in the formula.  


Some soap makers simply list the oils, but if you are looking on commercially made bars, you will see what are called the 'INCI' chemical names.  'INCI' stands for the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.  (AAG, which stands for Acronyms Are Great.)  INCI is a list of agreed upon names that manufacturers put on labels so that there is a standard of some sort. The words need to transcend languages in some ways but there are variations, with the Americans usually being the exceptions. (no real surprise there.)  For example, in the US, soap isn't considered a cosmetic, so legally, it only has to be labelled 'Soap'.  Everywhere else I know of, the ingredients need to adhere to INCI standards for that region and language.  Cosmetic manufacture laws are long and boring and a bit confusing.  If anyone wants to read about them, I can give you links.  I am an ingredients list reader because of sensitivities to certain chemicals, so rely on truthful information and claims on packaging, but again... another topic for another blog entry, because now, I'm tired.


Thanks for reading.  I hope you found it informative and interesting.  I touched on a few topics in addition to the one I set out with, perhaps raised some questions, so feel free to write in the comments section below.  *bangs on the mic*  Is this thing on?  


soap molecules forming.  neat, eh?





Thursday, 26 April 2012

Introducing Nidelva Soapmakers & Crafts blog

French green clay added to an olive oil soap turns a
soap into a deep-cleaning facial mask.
(above)Soap with silk proteins dissolved in it
makes an amazing difference to the texture
of the suds. (below) Salt scrub ready for
summer with the smell of jasmine.  

Welcome!

to all things soapmaking and crafts that catch my eye.


I live near the beautiful medieval Norwegian city of Trondheim, so there may be the occasional post or link in Norwegian, but essentially, this blog will be in English.


This year, I joined forces with the creative and inspiring group at Pryd in the historical Bakklandet area of Trondheim.  www.prydbutikken.blogg.no

It isn't my intention to make this blog one big advertisement for my products, but, as it happens, I am rather passionate about and proud of them.  Soapmaking has become something of an obsession with me, especially on the organic chemistry side of things.  I can literally go on and on about long-chain fatty acids and saponifiable fats and gel phase vs non-gel phase soap..... *see... I knew your eyes would glaze over...*  For those of you interested in the chemistry behind the soap, there will be plenty of that here and if I can work it out, I may even get a Q & A system up and running connected to this blog.  All that being said, you should hear a bit about who I am and what I do and what has led me to write this blog that will be bursting with crafts and all-things soap.


My name is Carol Benoit and for the past 5 years or so I have made natural body care products.  I keep things very simple and pure, making things from scratch and avoiding recipes that call for preservatives or colourings.  I combine my interest in science with making the best soap and body care products I can and making them lovely with fragrances and packaging.


As well as soap, I make salt scrubs, shea butter creams and solid lotion bars.  During the dry, cold winters here in Norway, our skin requires some TLC with loads of moisturisers and all my products are made without petroleum products or parabens.  The salt scrubs were formulated with a special store in mind here in Trondheim, but, sadly, it no longer exists.  She sold hundreds of my scrubs.  The good news is that they are still available through a new store, Pryd, in Bakklandet here in Trondheim, or you can contact me through this blog or my etsy store if you want to enquire about any of my products.  


I love simple and natural when it comes to the products I clean with and use on my body.  When I moved to Norway, almost 10 years ago now, I could not find epsom salt anywhere.  After many-a-confused phone call, it turned out, not many people had heard of epsom salts here, so I started importing it from England.  I've been spreading the good word about epsom salt soaks for aches and pains.  If you want to read up on epsom salt and its uses, here is a handy link.  http://www.epsomsaltcouncil.org/beauty/  


Link to my shop at esty:  www.nidelva.etsy.com


So, watch this space for interesting links to thrifty & essentially cool crafts, as well as learning about soapmaking.  I'll share some good formulas for making your own bath and body products and demystify soapmaking and some other crafts that might be sitting in your 'too hard' basket.